Samsung Washing Machine Error Codes: What They Mean and How to Fix Them

This table covers every Samsung washer error code you're likely to encounter. Bookmark this page so you can check back quickly next time your machine throws a tantrum.

A quick note on reading Samsung displays: the number 5 can look like the letter S on some models. If you see "SE," it almost certainly means 5E (a drain error), not a separate code. Samsung updated their code format from number-letter combinations (like 5E) to number-letter-number (like 5C) on newer models, but both mean the same thing.

5E / SE / 5C: Your Machine Can't Drain the Water

This is the single most common Samsung washing machine error code, and nine times out of ten, the fix is free. Your machine is telling you it tried to pump the water out and couldn't do it fast enough. The drum may still be full of water, so don't force the door open on a front loader.

Here's the thing about drain errors: they're almost always caused by a blocked debris filter. That little panel at the bottom-front of your front loader? Behind it sits a filter that catches coins, hair clips, tissues, and all the other surprises that fall out of pockets. When it clogs up, water can't get through.

How to fix 5E yourself (step by step)

You'll need towels and a shallow container like a baking tray. Lay the towels on the floor in front of the machine.

1. Locate the debris filter panel at the bottom-front of the machine. It's usually a small rectangular door you can pop open with a coin or flathead screwdriver.
2. Behind the panel, you'll see a small drain hose (pull it out and release the plug to drain water slowly into your container) and the filter cap.
3. Once the water has drained, unscrew the filter cap by turning it anticlockwise. Go slowly. There will be more water.
4. Pull out whatever you find. Coins, bobby pins, bra underwires, and clumps of lint are the usual suspects.
5. While the filter is out, shine a torch into the housing and check for anything stuck deeper inside.
6. Screw the filter back in firmly, close the panel, and run a short cycle to test.

Next, check the drain hose at the back. It should run from the machine to your laundry drain or standpipe, positioned between 60cm and 90cm from the floor. If it's kinked, straighten it. If it's sitting on the floor, water can siphon back into the machine.

When to call a professional for 5E

If you've cleaned the filter, checked the drain hose, and the machine still won't drain, the drain pump itself has likely failed. A replacement drain pump costs around $80 to $140 for the part, plus $100 to $200 for labour. Expect a total bill of $150 to $350. The pump sits behind the filter housing and requires partial disassembly of the machine, so this one is best left to a technician.

4E / 4C: No Water Getting Into the Machine

Your Samsung washer needs water to wash. Obvious, right? But this error trips up more people than you'd expect because the cause is often embarrassingly simple: someone turned the tap off.

Start with the basics. Walk to the back of your machine and check that both the hot and cold water taps are fully open. In many Australian laundries, these taps get bumped or turned off when you're moving things around. If you've recently had plumbing work done, the taps may have been shut off and not reopened.

If the taps are fine, pull the machine out and check the inlet hoses. Look for kinks, sharp bends, or anything squashing the hoses against the wall. Then try this: turn off the taps, unscrew the hoses from the back of the machine, and look at the small mesh filter screens where the hoses connect. These screens catch sediment and grit from your water supply, and over time they clog up. Clean them under running water with an old toothbrush.

Still not working? Try running a tap in your laundry. If the flow is weak, you may have a water pressure issue affecting your whole house. Call your local water authority or a plumber.

Cost Breakdown for 4E Repairs

If the taps, hoses, and filters are all fine but the machine still won't fill, the water inlet valve inside the machine has probably failed. This is an electromechanical part that opens and closes to let water in, and it's not a DIY replacement for most people.

4E1 / 4E2 / 4C2: Wrong Water Temperature

This one's a bit different. Your machine is getting water, but the temperature is wrong. On many Samsung front loaders, these codes mean scalding hot water is entering a cold-wash cycle.

The most common cause? The hot and cold hoses are swapped. Check the connections at the back of the machine. The cold inlet (usually marked with a blue ring or label) should connect to your cold tap, and the hot inlet (red) to the hot tap. If they're crossed, swap them over. Problem solved.

If the hoses are correct, check your hot water system. Water above 70°C can trigger this error and may damage fabrics. Australian hot water systems should be set between 50°C and 60°C for safety. If neither of those fixes it, the internal temperature sensor (thermistor) may need replacing, which costs around $150 to $250 with a technician.

UE / Ub: The Drum Can't Spin Safely

Take a breath. This is the least scary error your Samsung washer can show. It simply means the clothes inside have bunched up on one side, and the machine has stopped the spin cycle to protect itself from vibrating across your laundry floor.

A single UE error during a cycle is actually normal. The machine detects the imbalance, pauses, redistributes water to try and shift the load, then tries again. You only have a real problem if UE keeps flashing and the machine refuses to spin at all.

The fix is dead simple: pause the cycle, open the door (front loaders will unlock after a moment), and spread the clothes out evenly. If you're washing one heavy item like a doona cover or bath mat, throw in a couple of towels to balance the weight. Overloaded drums cause this too, so if you've crammed the machine full, take a few things out.

While you're at it, check that your machine is sitting level. Place a spirit level on top. If it rocks, adjust the front feet by screwing them in or out until the machine sits firmly on all four corners. Loose or uneven feet are a surprisingly common cause of persistent UE errors.

If UE keeps appearing with normal, well-distributed loads and your machine is perfectly level, the shock absorbers or suspension springs inside may be worn. This happens on machines that are five or more years old, and it costs around $180 to $350 to fix professionally. Shock absorbers typically run $40 to $80 for a pair, plus labour.

dE / dC: The Door Isn't Closing Properly

Your machine won't start because it doesn't think the door is shut. Before you start worrying about broken latches, check for the obvious: is a sock or a sheet corner caught in the rubber door seal? Pull the seal back gently and run your finger around the entire rim. Even a small piece of fabric can prevent the door from sealing.

Close the door firmly. You should hear a definite click. If the latch area looks gunky (detergent residue and lint build up there over time), give it a wipe with a damp cloth.

Power cycle the machine: off at the wall for two to three minutes, then on again. If the error clears, it was likely a minor glitch.

If the door physically clicks shut but the error persists, the electronic door interlock is probably faulty. This is the small device behind the door frame that tells the control board the door is locked. Replacement costs between $120 and $280 with a technician. The part itself is $40 to $80.

LO / L0: The Door Lock Mechanism Has Failed

Similar to dE but specifically about the locking mechanism. Sometimes this shows up when the machine finishes a cycle and the door won't unlock, which can be alarming.

Don't force the door. Turn the machine off at the wall and wait five to ten minutes. Most Samsung front loaders will automatically release the door lock once power is cut and a brief safety period has passed. If it doesn't release, check your user manual for the emergency door release (usually a small pull-tab inside the debris filter panel).

Repeated LO errors point to a faulty door lock actuator, costing around $120 to $250 to replace professionally.

LE / LE1: Water Leak Detected

Samsung front loaders have a leak sensor in the base tray. When it detects moisture, it triggers LE and shuts the machine down. The good news? This sensor is quite sensitive, and the "leak" isn't always a real one.

Excess detergent suds are a frequent false alarm. If you've been heavy-handed with the detergent (or used a non-HE formula in a front loader), foam can overflow internally and drip into the base tray. Reduce your detergent and run an empty hot cycle to clear residue.

For genuine leaks, work through this checklist:

1. Check the debris filter cap at the front. If it wasn't screwed back in tightly after cleaning, water seeps out during every cycle.
2. Inspect both inlet hoses at the back for drips at the connection points. Hand-tighten them. If the rubber washers inside are worn, replace them (a few dollars from any hardware store).
3. Check the drain hose connection where it meets the standpipe or drain. A loose fit lets water escape.
4. Look at the rubber door seal for tears, cracks, or warping. Run your fingers around the inner and outer lips.

If you can't find any external leak, the problem is internal: a cracked hose, damaged drum seal, or faulty pump. Internal leak diagnosis requires pulling the machine apart, so call a professional. Expect to pay $200 to $450 depending on the source.

OE / OC: The Drum Is Overfilling

This one is more serious and less DIY-friendly. Your machine thinks there's too much water in the drum. It could be that water is actually overfilling, or the water level sensor is misreading.

One thing you can check yourself: the drain hose position. If your drain hose runs straight down to a floor-level drain without looping up first, water can siphon back into the machine from the drain pipe. The hose needs to loop up to at least 60cm before descending into the drain. Most Samsung machines come with a hose guide or clip for this purpose.

Beyond that, OE errors are typically caused by a faulty pressure switch (water level sensor) or a water inlet valve that's stuck open, allowing water to continuously flow in. Both require professional diagnosis. Repair costs range from $180 to $350.

SUd: Too Much Foam in the Drum

Let's be blunt: this is almost never a machine fault. It's a detergent fault. Specifically, your detergent fault.

Front-loading washing machines use far less water than top loaders, which means they need far less detergent. If you're using a regular (non-HE) detergent, or pouring in the same amount you used in your old top loader, you'll get a drum full of foam and a machine that refuses to spin.

When SUd appears, the machine will pause and try to clear the suds by running extra rinses. Let it do its thing. It might add 30 to 60 minutes to your cycle, but it will usually resolve on its own.

Going forward:

• Switch to HE (High Efficiency) detergent. It's labelled on the bottle or box.
• Use less than you think you need. Most front loaders work well with just one to two tablespoons of liquid detergent.
• Run an empty hot wash once a month with a washing machine cleaner or a cup of white vinegar. This clears detergent residue that builds up in the drum, hoses, and soap dispenser.

HE / HC: The Heating Element Has Failed

Your Samsung washer heats its own water for warm and hot cycles. When the heating element fails, you'll get an HE or HC error, and hot washes won't heat properly. Cold washes will usually still work fine, so you're not completely stuck.

If you live in a hard water area, scale buildup on the heating element is a common culprit. Before calling anyone, try running an empty hot cycle with a commercial washing machine descaler or 200g of citric acid powder (available from the cleaning aisle of most supermarkets for around $5). In Adelaide and parts of regional Australia where water hardness is particularly high, this should be part of your regular maintenance routine.

If descaling doesn't clear the error, the heating element itself has likely burnt out or shorted. Replacement costs $200 to $400 including parts and labour. The element is located behind the drum and requires draining the machine and removing the back panel or front panel depending on the model. This is firmly professional territory.

tE / tC: Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) Fault

The thermistor is a small sensor that monitors water temperature. When it fails, the machine can't verify the water is at the right temperature for the selected cycle. Try a power cycle first (off at the wall for five minutes). If the error only appears on warm or hot cycles but cold washes run fine, the thermistor or its wiring has failed.

Thermistor replacement is relatively affordable at $150 to $280 all up, but it's located inside the machine near the heating element, so it requires the same professional disassembly.

3E / 3C: Motor Error

Don't panic yet. The most common cause of a 3E motor error is simply an overloaded drum. Your machine's motor is straining under too much weight, and the control board has shut things down to prevent damage.

Try this first: remove about a third of the laundry from the drum, power cycle the machine, and run the cycle again. Also check that the drum spins freely by hand (with the machine off). If it feels stiff or you hear a scraping sound, something may be caught between the inner drum and the outer tub. Bra underwires are notorious for this.

If the drum spins freely with a normal load and the error persists, the hall sensor (a small magnetic sensor that monitors motor speed) has likely failed. It's a cheap part at $30 to $60, but getting to it means pulling the machine apart. On older Samsung models with carbon brush motors, worn brushes can also cause this error. Total professional repair cost runs from $200 to $450, depending on what's actually failed.

One important note for Samsung owners: most Samsung washing machines sold in Australia come with a 10-year warranty on the digital inverter motor. If your machine is less than ten years old and the motor itself has failed (not just the sensor), check your warranty before paying for repairs. Call Samsung Australia on 1300 362 603 with your model and serial number ready.

PC / PE: Clutch Error (Top Loaders Only)

This one affects Samsung top-loading models. The clutch assembly allows the machine to switch between agitating (washing) and spinning, and when the position sensor can't detect it properly, you get a PC or PE error.

A power cycle is unlikely to fix this, but try it anyway. If the error returns, you'll need a technician. Clutch replacement costs $250 to $450 and requires specialist knowledge of the drivetrain. This is not a weekend DIY project.

UC / 9C: Voltage or Power Supply Issue

This error means your washing machine is receiving unstable electrical current. Before you assume the machine is broken, check one thing: is it plugged into an extension cord or power board?

Samsung washing machines should always be plugged directly into a wall power outlet. Extension cords and power boards can't handle the current draw during spin cycles, leading to voltage drops that trigger this error. This is the single most common cause, and the fix is as simple as plugging the machine straight into the wall.

If it's already in a wall outlet, check whether other high-draw appliances (dryers, heaters, ovens) are on the same circuit. Australian homes, particularly older ones, sometimes have laundry and kitchen outlets sharing a single circuit. Running a washing machine and an electric dryer simultaneously can overload it.

If the error persists with the machine plugged directly into its own outlet and nothing else drawing power, call a licenced electrician. You may need a dedicated circuit installed for the laundry, which typically costs $100 to $200. If the electrician confirms the power supply is fine, then the machine's internal power supply board may be faulty.

AE / AC: Internal Communication Failure

This is the error code that usually follows a power surge or storm. The main control board (PCB) has lost communication with one or more sub-components like the motor driver, display panel, or inverter board.

Step one: turn the machine off at the wall for a full ten minutes. Not two, not five. Ten. This gives all the capacitors time to fully discharge and resets the control boards. Power it back on and try a cycle.

If it clears, a power spike was the likely cause. Consider plugging your washing machine into a surge protector rated for appliances (not a cheap power board, but a proper surge protection device from an electrical supplier). These cost around $40 to $80 and can save you from a $300+ control board replacement down the track.

If the error persists after a proper reset, you need a technician. Control board replacement costs $250 to $500, and diagnosis requires testing multiple boards to identify which one has failed. This is not something you can troubleshoot at home.

CL: Child Lock (Not an Error)

If your display shows "CL" and none of the buttons respond, relax. Your child lock is on. Someone in your household has activated it, possibly a small someone with curious fingers.

To deactivate it on most Samsung models, press and hold the Temp and Rinse buttons simultaneously for three seconds. The CL icon should disappear. If your model uses a different button combination, check the sticker on the inside of the door or your user manual.

ddC / DC3: AddWash Door Open

If you own a Samsung AddWash model (the ones with the small door built into the main door), this code simply means that mini-door isn't latched. Check for a stray sock preventing it from closing, push it firmly until it clicks, and carry on. If the latch itself is broken, replacement runs $100 to $200, but this is uncommon.

FE / FC: Fan Motor Error

This only applies to Samsung washer-dryer combo units. The ventilation fan has failed, which means the machine can still wash but won't dry properly. A power cycle occasionally fixes a temporary glitch. If it doesn't, fan motor replacement costs $200 to $350 and requires a technician.

Before you pick up the phone and book a service call, run through this checklist. It takes five minutes and could save you $150 or more.

The Universal First Step: Power Cycle

Turn your washing machine off at the wall outlet. Wait a full two to three minutes. Turn it back on and try running a cycle. This clears temporary electronic glitches and resets sensor readings. It sounds too simple, but it resolves a surprising number of error codes, particularly AE, tE, UC, and LO.

Know Your Model Number

Every Samsung washing machine has a model number sticker. On front loaders, it's usually on the inside of the door frame. On top loaders, check inside the lid or on the back panel. The model number looks something like WW85T554DAW or WA85T5585BY. Write it down or snap a photo. When you call a repairer or Samsung support, they'll ask for it, and having it ready means they can confirm parts availability and pricing before they visit.

Take a Photo of the Error Code

Error codes can disappear after a power cycle, and trying to remember whether it was 5E or SE or 5C from memory isn't ideal. A quick phone photo of the display gives the technician exactly what they need.

What to Expect from a Service Call

Most appliance repairers in Australia charge a call-out fee of $80 to $180. This covers the technician's travel and initial diagnosis. Many repairers will deduct this fee from the final repair cost if you go ahead with the fix. Always confirm this before booking.

A straightforward repair (replacing a pump, valve, or sensor) is usually completed in a single visit. More complex jobs requiring ordered parts may need a second visit.

The Replacement Question

Here's a practical rule of thumb: if the repair quote exceeds two-thirds the cost of buying a new equivalent machine, or if your washer is over seven years old and facing a major repair (motor, control board, drum bearings), it may be more cost-effective to replace it. A technician worth their salt will be honest with you about this.

All prices below are estimates based on typical 2026 rates across Australian metro areas. Regional areas may attract higher call-out fees. Parts prices vary by model, and labour rates differ between repairers, so always get a written quote before authorising work.

Note: These are estimates only. Prices vary significantly between models, regions, and individual repairers. Always request a written quote that includes parts, labour, and any call-out fee before agreeing to a repair.

A few things worth knowing if you're running a Samsung washer in Australia.

Hard Water and Scale Buildup

Adelaide has some of the hardest water of any Australian capital city. Parts of Melbourne's western suburbs, much of regional South Australia, and large stretches of country Victoria and Queensland also have hard water. Scale (calcium and magnesium deposits) builds up on your heating element, in hoses, and inside the drum over time. It reduces heating efficiency, contributes to HE errors, and shortens the lifespan of your machine.

Run a monthly cleaning cycle: empty drum, hottest wash setting, and either a commercial washing machine cleaner or 200g of citric acid. This costs a few dollars and adds years to your machine's life.

Power Supply Matters

Australian wall outlets deliver 230V at 50Hz, which is what Samsung machines are designed for. But older homes, particularly fibro and weatherboard houses from the 1960s and 70s, can have aging wiring that doesn't deliver stable voltage under heavy load. If you're getting UC/9C errors in an older home, an electrician check is a worthwhile investment.

Samsung's Australian Warranty

Samsung Australia provides a 2-year parts and labour warranty on all washing machines. Most models with a Digital Inverter Motor also carry a separate 10-year motor warranty. This is a significant benefit. If your motor or motor sensor fails within ten years, the repair should be covered. Always check by calling 1300 362 603 before paying out of pocket.

Keep your proof of purchase. If you bought the machine from a retailer like The Good Guys, Harvey Norman, or Appliances Online, they can usually look up your purchase with your email address if you've lost the receipt.